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As a (very general) rule of thumb, fish deeper water (passes/inlets) on an outgoing tide, and fish shallow water (flats/shorelines) on an incoming tide. Fish tend to gravitate toward passes on an outgoing tide, facing the current to gobble up any morsels washed out of the backcountry by the tidal flow. On an incoming tide, they like to follow baitfish as they “push” further and further into the shallows.

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After a hot day, an afternoon rain can significantly lower water temperatures, making gamefish — especially those in skinny water — more active. Get on the water after a late afternoon thunderstorm and your odds of finding aggressive fish are very good. But be careful and patient–an errant lightning strike can make a good day fishing seem awful insignificant.

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When it’s been hot for a prolonged period, fish shy away from very shallow water. The reason: flats and other skinny-water areas heat up more quickly than deeper water does. Fish shallow areas early/late in the day, but if the sun is high and has put a pall on the action, consider deeper, cooler spots (or at the least cuts and channels adjacent to shallow flats or bars) until things cool down. A few inches can make a difference, so try cuts and channels along flats, as well.

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Remember that wind can severely influence tide heights. A strong wind moving in the same direction as the tidal flow can literally “blow out” a dropping tide, exposing shallow areas and leaving boaters stranded in the shallows for hours. Conversely, a wind blowing with an incoming tide can increase tidal flow — and water height — considerably. Be sure to check weather reports along with tide charts.

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Many anglers avoid fishing on days when wind and waves cause beaches and bays to get murky. And with good reason — muddy water can often turn off the bite. However, at times cloudy water can work to your advantage. Though fish in murky water can be much tougher to spot, the limited visibility makes them less spooky and selective, which can allow for closer casts and lead to more aggressive strikes. And try chartreuse jigs and plugs when it’s muddy - they’re easier for fish to see and track.

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If you’ve ever used a dive mask to look at underwater structure (like mangrove roots) you know that a certain measure of luck is required to extract a fish that makes its way into “the sticks”. Once a fish muscles its way back into roots (or other underwater snags like dock pilings, downed trees, etc), though, consider a reversal of fortune: point your rod tip toward the water and stick it as far down as you can without submerging the reel. Be sure to keep pressure on the fish the entire time, palming the reel for added pressure if required. This gives you an extra 5-6 feet of leverage and creates a straight (and less obstructed) line to the fish…which can buy you enough time to move the fight back into open water.

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Walking beaches to sight-fish can be productive, especially early and late in the day. In the summer months, snook are often seen cruising the “wash” along Florida’s beaches. When you see a smaller fish cruising close to shore, peer into the deeper water behind the fish you see. Larger snook (and redfish, and even tarpon) tend to cruise farther from the shore, where they’re harder to spot. In fact, the largest snook you’ll see are usually alone or with one other large fish, and they often cruise just out of your line of sight. Pull down that hat brim, use a good set of polarized glasses, walk slowly and do a lot of squinting.

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